[I received this lingerie set as a gift. All words and opinions are my own.]
Since its 2013 launch, All Undone has become a unique presence in the full-bust lingerie world. Not only is this true luxury lingerie, with luscious silk details and gold hardware, but in an industry that continuously assigns either plain “support” bras or hyper-retro/vintage/pin-up inspired styles to those who wear over a D-cup, All Undone’s more contemporary minimalism and chic colorblocking feels fresh and stylish. I had the pleasure of meeting founder and designer Eva while I was in London for a weekend in July, and I was astonished and delighted when she handed me a very special gift: the brand-new, beautiful light green Ariel collection. Ariel officially launched last week, and I’m thrilled to share my first in-depth review of this lovely brand.
Ariel marries a lovely pistachio green color scheme to core All Undone shapes. Crafted in a mix of pure silk charmeuse and dotted silk tulle, the Ariel balconette bra features three-part lightly-padded cups (vertical seam in the bottom of the cups and a horizontal seam cutting straight across the cups), with an external half-sling of pure silk connecting to the straps. The interior of the cups is cotton-lined, silk covers the center gore, and all the metal hardware (including sliders on the front of the straps for easy strap length adjustment) are gold. One of All Undone’s design signatures is a lack of frills and fuss– with no extraneous lace or ruffles or bows or rosettes, the shape and the luxurious materials really shine. The powermesh band fastens with two rows of three columns of hooks and eyes and includes stays (vertical pieces of light boning) under the arms for stability.
The coordinating brief is a dream– my whole bum is covered in pure silk charmeuse. A matching silk panel covers the front, while the waistband and hip panels are made of the same delicate dotted tulle that covers the bra cups. As with other All Undone knickers I’ve tried the rise is lower than some of the UK mid-market brands– All Undone definitely skews a little smaller and sexier in cut. The matching suspender echoes the design of the knickers beautifully, with silk panels in front and back, tulle panels over the hips, four fully adjustable suspenders with gold hardware, and two rows of three columns of hooks and eyes for fastening in back. Every piece in the collection is beautifully crafted, with the smooth seams, even stitching and immaculate finishings one would hope for at a luxury price point.
So I’ll get this out of the way first: All Undone bras are not the perfect match for my body in the way that, say, Ewa Michalak’s BM cut bras are. Padded bras generally present some fit challenges for me, and there’s no exception here. However, it’s also important to note that I wear the very largest sizes that the brand produces, and I could comfortably wear a larger size (especially in these post-wine-vacation photos). My body type is perhaps not representative of All Undone’s typical customer. As with many padded bras (especially demi cups), I choose to size up here. I typically wear a 32GG in UK brands like Freya or Panache; in All Undone I get my best fit in 34GG. My breast shape likes deep, projected cups, and since this shape is shallower, I get a more secure fit in a larger cup size without sacrificing too much support from a slightly looser band (I wear mine on the middle hooks instead of the loosest). Unlike some brands that offer a lot of coverage and aggressive shaping, All Undone’s classic shape is lower-cut, offering pushed up, rounded cleavage.
If All Undone offered XL sizes in knickers and suspender belts, I’d definitely order them instead of a Large. With a leaner cut and a lower rise, All Undone’s knickers are more daring than, say, Freya’s, and the Large just barely fits me. I usually wear a US 12 in skirts but wear a UK14 (US10) in knickers; All Undone’s knickers are true to size, so this really feels like a US10, and thus a bit more snug than I usually wear. The waistband tends to roll under my tummy throughout the day thanks to the lower cut, and I think an XL would give me a little more wiggle room and slightly more coverage. The suspender belt fits similarly, particularly as I don’t have a super-nipped-in waist compared to my hips. I prefer to wear an extender with the suspender belt to avoid having it dig into my softer midsection.
While Ariel isn’t a set I reach for on a day when I’m going to be super active, or on a day when I’m feeling a little bloated, it’s still delightfully comfortable and wearable, especially for a sexier luxury set. Silk really is a wonder fabric– it feels amazing on my skin, and it stays cool and breathable even at the height of summer. I LOVE that the strap adjusters are on the front of the strap for easy access– it’s such a small detail but it’s so helpful! I do have to adjust the bra throughout the day, but that’s down to my breast shape not being a perfect match for the cup shape. I know other folks with different breast shapes (I’m actually thinking of my twin sister at the moment) will probably adore this cut/fit and treasure it with their whole hearts. The band feels supportive without digging in, I don’t spill out of the cups, and the center gore tacks comfortably against my sternum. I love how the silk of the knickers feels– I kind of want to keep running my hands over my bum? Inappropriate? Finally, I know some people get very righteous about suspender belts, and how they “have to be” super deep or have six suspenders or whatever, but my Ariel suspender works beautifully, keeping my stockings up through a full day’s wear and adding a little coverage over my belly, which I appreciate.
One of the most important things I’ve learned the longer I’ve been writing is that no one brand can be all things to all people, especially indie brands, and that that’s OKAY. A brand isn’t bad or wrong for not making certain sizes, especially when they’re already working in a niche sector of the industry like full-bust. All Undone’s collections cater specifically to folks with smaller backs who want beautiful, chic lingerie with a sexy edge that still fits their fuller busts. I especially applaud All Undone for choosing more revealing knickers and accessories, as very often (for perfectly valid reasons) full-bust brands tend to produce pieces that focus on coverage and support. For those with smaller frames and D+ busts who want to wear more revealing, but still well-fitting, luxury lingerie, I can’t recommend All Undone highly enough. The gorgeous color pairings (previous collections have included ivory + chartreuse, black + royal blue, and charcoal + flame), silk and gold components, refreshingly fuss-free styling, and impeccable craftsmanship all make this brand a real standout in an increasingly vibrant and competitive market.
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Bra, Brief, and Suspender: Ariel by All Undone (£95/56/58, or about $277 for the set at today’s exchange rates). Bra available in sizes 28-34 D-GG, brief and thong available in sizes XS-L, suspender available in sizes S-L. All Undone is a UK company, so the cup size progression is D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG.
Stockings: Leg Avenue
Photos: Studio Rezin