(Note: There were multiple events on Saturday, and for ease of writing/reading I’ll break it up into two parts).
The second day of LingerieFW featured two gallery presentations from four different designers, as well as a final runway show. The first gallery presentation featured three designers: NaïS, Nevaeh, and Rouge Seduire, all designed and made in New York!
These designers were all new to me, as was the format of the gallery presentation. Again, let it be known: I do not want to be a lingerie model. Perched on white boxes in towering heels, they were like these radiant creatures from some other world who were wholly unfazed by the fully clothed press walking right up to their naked selves and squinting at them from behind phones and cameras. Mad props, ladies: your job is seriously hard, but you looked awesome doing it.
Designed and made in New York City, NaiS features unusual hybrid pieces that bridge the gap between lingerie and loungewear. Many of the “Fallen Queens” collection’s details are subtle and crept up on me, almost surprising me when I’d return for a second or third look. The models’ makeup was glowing and bronzed, and they sported painted dots highlighting their eyes, gold chains in their hair, and tousled, loose updos and braids. Featuring a grouping of mix-and-match, very wearable shades of black, beige, peach, and gold, the ensembles walked an unusual and intriguing line between lingerie and outerwear.
I really enjoyed the layered ensembles. Normally I get cranky when fashion spreads and stylists are all “layering! so chic! so stylish!” and I’m all “no, you just want me to buy three shirts instead of one, you jerks”, but in this case it just . . . worked for me. In the look above, I love how the stockings are suspended from the slip (instead of a belt or a knicker), and layered under the drapey top, fuzzing the line between dressed and undressed. In the look below, I enjoy the surprise of thinking you’re looking at a simple bodysuit, and then realizing that a delicate, sheer lace lingerie set (complete with more stockings!) is layered underneath.
The collection also featured pieces that are more traditional matched lingerie sets, like the chic wired bra and patterned bralette sets below.
It was hard to pick a favorite look (spoiler: I’m probably going to say that about everything), but I really liked the dramatic dress/slip below. It looks unbelievably sexy and powerful, and it could be worn under a knee-length black skirt for a more demure look, keeping the suspenders hidden (to be revealed at the opportune moment, no doubt).
Like NaiS, Nevaeh’s presentation offered pieces that moved beyond simple bra-and-panty sets into more fashion-forward items that offer some flexibility when it comes to styling.
Well THIS was right up my alley. In News We Already Knew: I like pretty things. I can’t help it. My spirit shrivels up and wants to cry if you hand me a beige bra. Bold colors and black lace and silks and satins: that is where I want to be.
The collection was pretty pretty pretty: gorgeous lace, great hair and makeup, charming accessories. The poufy, vintage-style hats just worked BEAUTIFULLY with the lingerie. The shapes and colors are very classic, yet the collection as a whole feels fresh. I loved some of the unexpected styling, especially the raspberry suspender belt styled with an all-black ensemble below. I’m so stuck in the mindset of “ensembles must match at all costs” that I never would have put these pieces together, and instead of feeling off-key, it’s sassy, surprising, and elegant.
While Nevaeh read more as straight-up lingerie than the lingerie/loungewear hybrid NaiS, the collection still offers pieces that could be layered or adapted into loungewear (or even day or evening wear). There were two stunning black lace wraps with gleaming silk sashes, of which I could not get a suitably glorious picture, on account of Using My Phone Instead of a Real Camera Already, but the lace is GORGEOUS. It’s woven in beautiful patterns that looked from some angles like fans and from others like oversized flower petals and leaves.
The pretty blush slip above as well as the black half-slip are made from the same bold lace. I could see both making excellent layering pieces to sass up an otherwise simple ensemble.
My favorite from Nevaeh? I was surprised I gravitated to it, since I can’t really wear soft bras/bralettes, but there was something simple, yet unabashedly girly and sophisticated about the berry-colored set below. I love the black straps, the button details, the soft lace overlay, and of course the suspenders. Add in a froofy hat? Perfect.
While all three presentations were delightfully feminine and “pretty”, Rouge Seduire was the most aggressively, well, seductive, as well as the most strictly-lingerie collection. The pieces featured rich, saturated jewel tones in silk satin, paired with sheer and solid black, incorporating sexy strappy and cut-out details.
The models’ makeup was minimalistic, yet dramatic, and hair and jewelry followed suit. I particularly love the styling of the model wearing the soft black wire-free triangle bra above– throw on a silk kimono and add in a long cigarette holder, and she could stalk into a party at Jay Gatsby’s house with no trouble at all.
There’s a bit more aggression to this collection than, say, Nevaeh, especially with the playsuit above, which veers thrillingly close to bondage territory. It’s architectural and soft, bold and feminine. The pairing of multiple straps with sheer black is simultaneously delicate and powerful.
I’m totally stealing an observation made to me at the show by The Lingerie Lesbian when I asked her opinion, because it’s just so dead-on. She suggested that she would have liked to have seen this collection released for the full-bust market. Now that I’ve heard that, I can’t stop imagining it. There really isn’t anything out there right now for DD+ cups, and ESPECIALLY not for GG+ cups, that offers this level of sophistication, elegance, danger, or darkness. Marlies Dekkers offers some strappy fuller-bust options, but even then they stop at a European F-cup (UK E, US DDD).
Oh god, I’m sorry, I brought up voids in the full-bust market in my last LingerieFW post too. Listen, I truly don’t want to take these beauties AWAY from the women who currently wear them. I mean, hello, do you see the models? They are incredible, and other women who wear the “standard” sizes are going to rock the hell out of these too. I suspect that seeing all these amazing, fresh, daring collections one right after the other is really opening my eyes to the wonderful designs that are just tumbling out of the lingerie world right now. I think Caro hit the nail on the head though– of these three shows, the Rouge Seduire aesthetic and styling, especially those sexy cut-outs and strappy details, would absolutely sing on a full-busted figure, and there’s not really anything for full busts that approaches this glamorous, seductive, dominating vibe. Remember when I said above that I didn’t want another beige bra? This is why.
Did you miss the first day of LingerieFW? Check out my review of the opening night show!
What do you think of the Made in NYC presentations? Do you have a favorite designer or piece?